‘I think it’s about a mindset,’ says Stella McCartney. ‘My first decision is always, can I do this in a more environmental way without sacrificing design?’ From the regenerated cashmere in her knitwear, to the renewable energy which powers the majority of her stores, McCartney has always championed an eco-friendly approach. As a result, her womenswear collection is 53% sustainable, a figure the label is looking to increase over the coming years. McCartney is keen to emphasise that her ‘first job is to make desirable, luxurious, beautiful clothing and accessories that women and men want to buy’. One look at her sleek collections of elegant separates confirms sustainability is not getting in the way.
Increasingly, both established houses and emerging labels are adopting a more conscious approach with responsible supply chains, organic fibres and innovative recycled fabrics. Mara Hoffman launched her label in 2000 – vivid colours and prints were signature, catapulting her collections to the top of every tastemaker’s vacation wishlist. Inspired by ‘a continual heightening of awareness’, Hoffman has overhauled her label for SS17, adopting an entirely new approach ‘founded in the idea of creating what we do with the least amount of harm and in turn, communicating the idea of buying less and wearing more’. Working with recycled and organic fabrics, Hoffman’s aesthetic has evolved alongside the newly sustainable ethos, introducing looser silhouettes and new colour palettes.