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EDITOR’S PICKS LEANDRA’S NEW-SEASON WISHLIST

The author and founder of Man Repeller is compiling her AW19 wardrobe. She shares her must-have pieces and ways to wear them.

At the end of nearly every summer, all the garment categories that I vowed to never tire of – the exquisite white linens, structurally forgiving kaftans, simple denim shorts and light cotton blouses – begin to look more like restaurant table-napkins, cheap ways to avoid getting dressed, dated bottoms and tattered tops.

This is not because any of these clothes actually do become tired, but it is because I get tired. Such is the woe (or is it thrill?) of living in a four-season climate. Inevitably, I am conditioned to anticipate the one that comes next, and in doing so, to send the one in which I currently still stand to the graveyard. So right now, with the momentum of summer’s wings dropping, all I can think of is the multifarious opportunities of the imminent AW19 season. The choices! The muses! The identities I can craft and mould – slip into and out of – in the name of displaying the slate I have wiped clean! It is all as if to say, ‘Hello, world, I am born anew and this – these trends, right here below – are how I shall express it.’

THE CHECKED BLAZER

Houndstooth, herringbone, plain old virgin wool – it doesn’t really matter, but in essence, the silhouette is emblematic of how the French bourgeois once dressed. I am particularly drawn towards a blazer by Khaite, single breasted and relatively slim waisted, but with boxy shoulders and wide arms, rendered in several shades of brown. Officine Générale and Isabel Marant offer versions of their own – cropped sleeves, double breast, it doesn’t really matter. Let’s cast a wide net.

THE SHIRT

And wear them with... adventurous striped shirts. I prefer no collar on a button-down shirt, but enjoy an unexpected adventure if it arises. Charles Jeffrey Loverboy makes a good case for colour-block stripes, but Palmer//Harding promises surprise, what with its party-in-the-back mullet shape. On The Island By Marios Schwab does great things with colour – the greens will look great against my Khaite, wouldn’t you say? – and By Walid tests my depth of understanding. What makes a striped shirt good, anyway?

THE JEANS

Shirt on and ready to roll, here’s looking for the ideal jeans. This endeavour is like a recreation of the story of Goldilocks And The Three Bears. Subjectivity is what makes a pair of jeans ideal, and my particular classifications of perfection include: non-stretch, mid- to high rise, light to mid wash, slightly longer than ankle length, not skinny, but not quite straight, either. Make sense? Think Balenciaga’s Tube jeans.

THE LOAFERS

Hem length and ankle width is key, because you’ll be pairing your jeans with loafers. I am keen on a substantial sole, but not too substantial. Feminine enough to offset your blazer, unique as they are to demand some socks. I’m contemplating designs by Hereu or – wait a tick – I think a style by Tod’s might be the perfect pair. The ratio of vamp to ankle-crease is forgiving enough for longer pants but primed for cropped ones, too, and the shiny leather, set on a narrow toe over a rubber sole do a damn good job of looking fancy and practical at once.

THE CARDIGAN

Glad that’s out of the way. For my next profile type: cardigan sweaters. But they’ve got to be either short and thin enough to tuck into trousers or thick enough to wear hanging out of jeans, but paired with that checked blazer. For the jeans, Loewe gets my vote. For the trousers, it’s No. 21.

THE TROUSERS

But we should talk about the trousers, right? They’re ideally grey (or more specifically, charcoal) or navy. And it’s imperative that they’re tapered. It will make my shoe plans all the more audacious.

THE BOOTS

Shoe plans set, knee-high boots – with a shaft straight enough to exude the air of a riding boot – are an ideal place for trousers to tuck themselves into. Snug as a cottage in the Alps – or bed!

THE FINISHING TOUCHES

As a final topping, I will fold a handkerchief in half and run it through my hair, allowing the triangular point to cascade with my locks down the back of my head – something I have thought of, but never done before. And then, as it gets colder and my blazer no longer cuts it as outerwear, I’ll find a collarless coat and a gigantic tote and just like that, I’m new again. Until, that is, I’m not.

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PHOTOGRAPHS: GETTY IMAGES.

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