Octavia Elizabeth Zamagias on her sisters and mother

‘Growing up with two sisters and an incredible mother I was always inspired by strong women, and that is reflected in all of our pieces, which are designed to be feminine yet durable,’ Octavia Elizabeth Zamagias, founder of Octavia Elizabeth, explains. ‘The roles a woman plays on a daily basis and how much she accomplishes are insurmountable. With that in mind, I design pieces that any woman can wear every day, and that can grow with them.’ This translates to jewellery that will ‘enhance, not overpower the wearer’s style’, such as the signature Gabby hoops, named after her sister, and her personal favourite Signet rings.

‘Growing up with two sisters and an incredible mother, I was always inspired by strong women.’

The women, and men, that wear her jewellery are always front of mind for Octavia, who trained at the London School Of Jewellery before establishing her label in 2016. She has since enlisted an ‘incredible team of women’ who help grow the brand, allowing her to create collections rooted in elegance, ease and ethical responsibility. ‘I believe one of our greatest advantages is our commitment to sustainable practices. All of our suppliers are UN Fair Trade approved and members of the Responsible Jewellery Council, we use 100% recycled gold, and our production is start-to-finish in Los Angeles,’ she explains. ‘We also work with female artisans, and I take a hands-on approach when establishing and growing our partnerships. We recently partnered with Myne London Emeralds, a female-operated emerald lapidary in Islamabad, Pakistan, which not only supports our commitment to sustainable practices, but also empowers women in Pakistan’s jewellery sector.’ 

Ladan and Tania Shayan on their mother-daughter bond

The eternal bond between mother and daughter is at the heart of Ladan and Tania Shayan’s much-loved fine jewellery line, Shay. ‘There was no question that I wanted to do this with my mom. It was Ladan who encouraged me to try to sell my first ever bracelet to stores. We went together to a boutique in Beverly Hills, where the owner placed an order in every colour, and they sold out within a week,’ recalls Tania. ‘We are lucky that we complement each other. We are extremely close and have the same taste and style in pretty much everything, and as the business has grown, we’ve naturally gravitated towards our strengths,’ she says of their dynamic partnership – one rooted in trust, a shared mindset and their personal experiences.

‘Most women seek a connection with jewellery. A keepsake that brings back a memory.’

‘As each piece is designed by us both, it’s a mixture of generations,’ she says. ‘From childhood, my mom has loved emeralds, which is a gemstone we incorporate into most of our designs. She also always loved jewellery from the Art Deco era, so I learned to appreciate many attributes of these pieces from a young age.’ This emotional relationship with jewellery is also key to Shay’s unique charm, and subsequent success. ‘Most women seek a connection with jewellery. A keepsake that brings back a memory,’ Tania explains. ‘It reminds them of a love, an achievement, something they were able to buy on their own, a piece given to them by a parent or grandparent. It’s all about bringing a beautiful memory back.’

Kelly Souied and Kelia Toledano on their friendship

Art Deco and vintage influences meet vivid, unique gemstones at Rainbow K – a Parisian fine jewellery label helmed by childhood friends Kelly Souied and Kelia Toledano. ‘The idea of working together came very naturally,’ Kelly tells me, ahead of the label’s MATCHESFASHION launch. ‘Kelia, alongside her finance studies, has always been passionate about vintage, antique and Art Deco jewellery. As the granddaughter of a diamond dealer, I have admired precious stones from a young age and went on to train as a gemologist. It was always a dream to set up my own line.’ Having known each other for years, communication and collaboration is their greatest strength. Rather than strictly delegating processes, they work together closely across all areas of the business, creating collections that ‘intertwine vintage and modernity.’

‘Jewellery is passed from mother to daughter. This sense of transmission is very precious to us.’

As two young women in the industry, they are very much attuned to the wants and needs of their client base, who they regularly connect with in their Paris showroom. ‘We create with the women of the 2020s in mind. For us, it’s about democratising fine jewellery,’ Kelly explains. ‘We design jewellery to subtly accompany our clients in their everyday lives. It’s extremely rewarding to create something that may participate in a sentimental moment or event. As women, we know that jewellery is tied to memory, it is passed from mother to daughter. This sense of transmission is very precious to us.’ As such, Rainbow K’s creations feel like future heirlooms, such as the signature Shield rings, a contemporary twist on the pinky rings worn by their grandfathers. 

Lauren Rubinski on her grandmother

A look inside her beloved grandmother’s jewellery box in Cap d’Antibes was one of many moments that sparked Parisian designer Lauren Rubinski’s love for bold, powerful jewellery. ‘My grandmother, Paulette, was a force of nature. She lived a very fulfilling life and was never afraid to be loud, to be present in every aspect of life from the way she dressed to the way she cooked,’ explains Lauren, who established her namesake fine jewellery line in 2019. ‘She taught me never to be afraid, to never stay quiet. She wore bright colours all her life, she could never stand still and was in love with living. Her aura was inspiring, and she will remain my inspiration forever.’ Strong women like her grandmother and mother taught Lauren about the role of fashion in everyday life and this, coupled with her keen eye for vintage jewellery from the 1980s, continues to inform her every creation.

‘My Grandmother, Paulette, will remain my inspiration forever.’

‘In this day and age, women want to make a statement. So, think bold, bright, big ­– my three Bs rule,’ she tells MATCHESFASHION. ‘I want [my clients] to feel strong and feminine wearing my jewellery.’ The resulting pieces are striking yet eminently wearable. Her signature chain necklaces, worn by the likes of Kate Moss, are handcrafted with hollow 14kt gold links to ensure they are lightweight and comfortable. These have been a hit since the beginning, but she also likes to dabble in playful motifs such as the heart-shaped pendants, which she considers ‘wearable art’. Above all, she wants to create something that she, and her clients, will truly love to wear. ‘I feel incredibly lucky to be able to imagine a piece I’d like to wear and actually create it,’ she says. ‘There is nothing more rewarding than being able to wear your own work.’